More Inclusivity, Less Waste — Why Clothing Customization Is Fashion’s Way Forward
by Stella Hertantyo
Have you ever put on a garment that fits so perfectly that it feels as though it was made for you? Or found a thrifted gem that makes you feel as though you are the only person in the world that owns it?
It’s a pretty special feeling. I know it makes me want to cherish that garment for as long as possible, because it feels as though it was meant just for me.
That somewhat indescribable feeling is part of what we need to heal the systemic indifference, carelessness, and disconnection from our clothing that the fast fashion industry thrives off of.
It's crucial we find ways to collectively foster the feeling that allows us to buy with intention, cherish deeply, and convince ourselves that discarding our clothing is not only wasteful, but also a loss of joy and meaning in our own lives.
There is a simple offering that fashion brands can tap into to cultivate this: clothing customization.
This content was made in partnership with slow fashion brand A.Oei Studio.
What Is Clothing Customization?
A customized garment possesses a unique quality made just for you — whether that's a small embellishment or an entire tailored silhouette.
There are so many ways to customize a garment. In practice, it could look like:
Customizing your own clothing at home by sewing on a patch, adding some embroidery, or painting.
Taking a garment to a local tailor to adjust the fit.
Ordering a made-to-order garment from a brand that allows you to determine the size, fit, and even fabrication.
For brands and businesses working customization services into their business models, it’s about providing customers with personalized fits and styles that are unique to their body types and style preferences. Customizing can mean creating a garment from scratch — taking size, color, and fit into consideration. Or it can mean embellishing and reimagining an existing garment.
The process of customization often requires the active involvement of the wearer in reimagining the garment.
What if, Instead of Just Customers, We Could Be Designers Too?
Reimagining our identity in the fashion industry — as beings who are capable of so much more than just buying clothing or following trends — can cultivate a fashion system that thrives on creativity and care instead of mindless overconsumption.
We can’t all be fashion designers. But brands with clothing customization services offer a collaborative middle ground. Customers can work with designers to add a unique flair to the garment they are investing in.
A.Oei Studio, a USA and Singapore-based slow fashion brand with a customization offering, has found that there are many benefits to this.
“Firstly, the customer receives a design that fits their personal style and needs,” explains founder, Angeline Oei. She adds, “it's also a more interesting and rewarding experience for the customer to be a part of the creative process. They start asking more questions about the fabric, they learn more about the sewing process, and they even learn to take their own measurements.”
Clothing customization breaks through the seemingly impermeable boundary between the designer and the consumer, allowing the consumer to become part of the design process and artistry in their own way.
Using Customization To Challenge Fashion’s Culture of Waste
According to the oft-cited 2017 Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s “New Textiles Economy” report, the average number of times a garment is worn decreased by 36% from 2000 to 2015.
“The current perception of clothing as a disposable item stems partly from a lack of understanding of how clothing is made. By engaging the customer in the production process and increasing their awareness of the fabric, cut, and details, the customer becomes more involved in the life cycle of their clothing and, potentially, will value and use it for a long time,” says Oei.
Here are a few ways that clothing customization offerings can limit waste and fashion’s environmental impact:
Limiting production waste
If a garment is customized from scratch, it is generally made-to-order. Oei explains that “made-to-order prevents overproduction as a garment is made only after an order has been placed, with a specific user in mind. Not having to worry about excess, unsold inventory allows me to spend more time developing and increasing the quality, usability, and lifecycle of the designs.”
A.Oei Studio’s custom designs are handmade-to-order, with a delivery timeline of two weeks to three months, depending on the complexity.
"To further minimize production waste, I create digital renderings of customized designs which help the customer visualize the fit and fabrication more accurately. That reduces the need for multiple prototypes and fittings," Oei adds.
Deepening our emotional connection with our clothing
If you've been involved in the process of creating a garment, chances are you’ll develop an attachment to the pieces you've designed and curated.
“Knowing who made your clothes, where your clothes come from, and knowing that you were directly collaborating with the designer — I think that enhances the emotional and symbolic value of the garment,” reflects Oei. Naturally, this means you’ll wear it for longer and think twice before discarding it.
Psychologists and behavioral economists refer to this as the endowment effect.
Decreasing returns
Online returns have become a massive issue and source of waste in the fashion industry. Recent research shows that three fourths of Gen Z consumers reportedly purchase an average of three items online at any one time, and then return two.
In stark contrast, A.Oei Studio typically receives just one return per year.
"Because of the collaborative nature of my business model, most customers are engaged in the production of their orders. We work together on fit, style, and fabrication, making sure that the design suits their needs. The customer actively provides feedback which I take note of when I come up with new ideas. As such, I can keep on improving new iterations of a design,” explains Oei.
Opening up avenues for upcycling
Customizing can also mean reworking a garment to help customers get more wear out of an existing garment.
“Recently, I took on a project where I transformed a customer’s gown into a casual top and skirt set. This project re-purposed 90% of the original gown material and renewed the lifecycle of a precious clothing item,” shares Oei.
Customization can become a memorable experience and powerful connection between the customer and the brand. A garment the customer is actively involved in creating and has to be patient for, is likely one that they will keep for longer, repair, and care for.
Can Customization Make Fashion More Inclusive?
Limiting waste isn't the only pro of customization services.
Reimagining our fashion system involves creating slow fashion options that embrace different styles, traditions, cultural backgrounds, body types, and people with disabilities.
At a minimum, clothing customization is a way to welcome different personal style preferences. But customizable garments are also one practical way to make slow fashion more inclusive for plus-sized folks or people with disabilities who have long been ignored and under-catered for in fashion.
“Since each design is individually cut and sewn, I can flexibly alter the measurements to accommodate different sizes. I can also consider different specifications like bust, waist, hips, and shoulders,” says Oei.
Because customized garments are often tailored to the customer's specifications, it opens up an abundance of style options for those who've been excluded from the fashion industry, giving them access to clothes that work best for their bodies.
An Alternative Mode of Crafting Garments — Centering Sustainability, Artistry, and Personalization
If you want an example of what integrating a customization offering into a brand looks like, in practice, look no further than A.Oei Studio.
“The goal of my customization and made-to-order model is to create a garment that fits well, is comfortable and versatile for multiple social settings, transcends seasonal trends, and is made using high-quality natural fabrics and design techniques,” says Oei.
Sticking with the theme of creating trans-seasonal garments, Oei avoids using novelty or “seasonal” fabrics and instead works from a small library of versatile fabrics that can be used repeatedly across a wide range of styles — from tops to dresses and pants.
A.Oei Studio also creates a range of specialty printed fabrics that are designed and digitally printed on natural fibers with low-impact ink — adding a layer of irreplaceable storytelling to each garment. “Customers enjoy learning about the inspiration and process behind the prints. Not only do the prints add value to the garments, they also showcase fashion as an artisanal craft, rather than a disposable object,” explains Oei.
They also offer a range of small-batch, ethically produced ready-to-wear styles for a buildable, versatile wardrobe.
“Even though my collection is small, customization offers a lot more options and possibilities. There is a greater freedom of choice knowing that they can always purchase something when they feel ready to, and have it made to their liking,” adds Oei.
More inclusivity and less waste are exactly what we need to make everyone feel welcome in the movement toward a more sustainable, ethical, and joyful fashion industry.
About the Author:
Stella Hertantyo is a slow fashion and slow living enthusiast based in Cape Town, South Africa. Stella finds solace in words as a medium for sharing ideas and encouraging a cultural shift that welcomes systems change and deepens our collective connection to the world around us. She is passionate about encouraging an approach to sustainability, and social and environmental justice, that is inclusive, intersectional, accessible, and fun.
Stella holds a B.A. Multimedia Journalism from the University of Cape Town, and a PGDip in Sustainable Development from the Sustainability Institute. She currently works as a writer, editor, and social media manager. When she is not in front of her laptop, a dip in the ocean, or a walk in the mountains, are the two things that bring her the most peace.
