Can Made-to-Order Slow Down Fashion's Unsustainable speed? (Plus: 12 Made-To-Order Fashion Brands)
By Stella Hertantyo
Fast fashion brands are notorious for producing far too many clothes. These huge fashion companies produce excessive volumes, with the hopes that more people will buy their clothes at an ever-increasing rate.
And because the true cost of this overproduction is not shouldered by the people making the largest profits, they continue to do so without regard for people or the planet.
But what if fashion brands only produced exactly as many garments as they sold, so that waste and overconsumption were minimized and the speed of fashion was actively slowed down?
This is exactly the mission and ethos of fashion brands using a made-to-order sustainable fashion business model.
What Is Made-To-Order Fashion?
When a brand sells ‘made-to-order’ garments this means that they only produce a garment once a customer has placed an order for it.
Generally, there will be a longer lead time between when the garment is ordered and the point at which the customer receives the garment because the garment is only made once it has been ordered.
While this extra lead time requires some getting used to, there are many slow fashion benefits to the made-to-order fashion business model.
What Are The Benefits Of Made-To-Order Fashion?
Less Waste
Made-to-order fashion brands create minimal waste and curb overproduction and overconsumption. Simply put: they don’t carry excess stock, so they don’t create excess waste.
Deeper Appreciation for Garment Production Process (h3)
The longer lead time between ordering and receiving a garment reminds us that patience pays off and encourages an appreciation for the time and effort that goes into making clothing. So, not only does made-to-order slow down the rate of production, but it also slows down our expectations of fashion. This is a very meaningful unlearning in a world promoting the instant gratification of fast fashion.
Size Inclusivity
Made-to-order fashion business models are also one way to make slow fashion more inclusive for plus-sized folks or people with disabilities who have long since been ignored and under-catered for in the fashion industry. Because made-to-order garments are often tailored to the customer's specifications, it opens up an abundance of style options for plus-sized folks others who have been too often excluded from the fashion industry and allows them to choose clothing that works best for their bodies.
Stronger Emotional Connections to Our Clothes
Overall, the made-to-order process is more personalized, because the garment you order is made just for you, and there is something very special about that. These emotional connections with our clothing help to heal the disposability mindset that the fast fashion industry thrives on. Plus, there is a sense of power in being the co-creator and collaborator of your own shopping experience, instead of just a consumer.
If you’d like to learn more about a few of the brands that are championing this business model, we have compiled a list of 12 made-to-order fashion brands that are shifting our mindsets when it comes to the unsustainable speed and wastage of the fashion industry.
12 Brands With Made-To-Order Fashion
A.Oei Studio
A.Oei Studio is all about showcasing fashion as an artisanal craft rather than a disposable object. They offer made-to-order pieces, customizable garments, and a range of small-batch, ethically produced ready-to-wear styles – including their Tailored Culottes.
The garments are made with versatile – mostly natural – fabrics. Founder Angeline Oei has also created a range of specialty printed fabrics that are designed and digitally printed on natural fibers with low-impact ink — adding a layer of irreplaceable storytelling to each garment.
Plus, A.Oei Studio can help you bring to life the custom wedding dress of your dreams. And, once the wedding festivities are over, you can take your dress back to the studio for it to be reimagined and repurposed into a more casual garment – or two – so you can keep wearing it after your special day.
A.Oei Studio values the power of creative collaboration between the wearer and the designer as a way to deepen our emotional connection with our clothing, limit waste, and prioritize inclusivity.
Conscious elements: Customizable designs, bespoke tailoring, small batch production, natural fabrics, fabric patterns printed with low-impact ink, locally manufactured
Investment: $$-$$$
Chalsie Joan
When it comes to Chalsie Joan’s clothing, the beauty is in the details – from the perfect frills to the impeccable tailoring and nostalgic silhouettes.
The brand offers a limited and collectible range of eclectic vintage-inspired pieces – such as their Anna Blouse – that are each made in founder Chalsie Williamson’s home studio, using a mixture of locally sourced and deadstock fabrics. Their garments are size inclusive and garments can be made to your exact measurements.
Conscious elements: Size inclusive, sustainable materials, locally manufactured
Investment: $$$
Chelsea Bravo
Chelsea Bravo creates sustainably-made elevated basics in rich Earth tones. The illustrative hand-painted prints that are included on many of their garments, such as this Painted Faces Jumpsuit, make Chelsea Bravo’s garments items of unique wearable art.
Chelsea Bravo’s eclectically minimalist garments are made using hemp, linen, and organic cotton. Their signature silhouettes are roomy enough for you to move and play through life, unrestricted in slow fashion style.
Conscious elements: natural and organic fabrics, upcycling, locally manufactured
Investment: $$-$$$
Mary Benson
The first things that will strike you about Mary Benson’s made-to-order dresses are the bold colors, magical 70s prints, and romantic silhouettes, as can be seen on their Zelda Dress. Their garments are upcycled from deadstock material or made using organic and recycled fabrics. And, they are inclusively designed to suit all kinds of bodies.
As a brand, Mary Benson values transparency and works with local factories, seamstresses, and suppliers to reduce their carbon impact and ensure fair labor practices. The brand focuses on merging creativity and sustainability to create truly unique pieces that you’ll be able to treasure for a lifetime.
Conscious elements: Sustainable materials, size-inclusive, locally manufactured, recyclable packaging, ethical labor practices
Investment: $$$
We Are KIN
Founded by Ngoni Chikwenengere, We Are KIN creates slow fashion statement pieces that are sustainably manufactured in London. The brand creates beautifully constructed garments that exist outside of trends and seasons, making them timeless pieces that are intended to be a part of your forever wardrobe. Their made-to-order garments, such as The Strappy Maxi, are made from organic and recycled materials.
Part of the reason We Are KIN chose to be a made-to-order fashion brand is so that they could be truly size-inclusive and ensure that everyone can feel their best in their clothing. Their core offering includes sizes 6-26, but they also cater to sizes outside of this and can lengthen or shorten to fit as well.
Conscious elements: Size inclusive, end-of-roll fabrics, sustainable fabrics, locally manufactured
Investment: $$$
ESSE
Feeling frustrated by her overflowing wardrobe of low-quality clothing and disillusioned by the state of fast fashion, founder Alicia Tsi quit her job to create ESSE and prove that it is possible to redefine the way we approach fashion. Offering garments such as their Organic Cotton Wrap Pants, ESSE is known for the earthy tones of their garments, classic silhouettes, and their commitment to designing for longevity.
ESSE prides themselves on their traceable supply chain, ethical labor practices, and commitment to environmental and social responsibility. ESSE’s garments are made from three low-impact fabrics – organic cotton, Tencel, and linen. In addition to their complimentary repairs service, their website includes a comprehensive guide on how best to care for your clothing and mending tutorials.
Conscious elements: Sustainable fabrics, repair service, traceable supply chain, support charitable causes, plastic-free packaging
Investment: $$
Doodlage
Indian made-to-order fashion brand Doodlage is a brand that is working with waste to create beautifully upcycled garments for everyday wear. Using post-consumer waste, they transform scraps into new fabric that is used to create their seasonless garments with a unique flair. Their Henry Shirt is a perfect example of this artistry.
With smaller scraps of textile waste that they cannot use to make clothing, they create accessories, stationery, and home goods. Their combination of seasonless silhouettes with the unique aesthetic of upcycled post-consumer waste, Doodlage garments are ones to treasure.
Conscious elements: Size-inclusive, upcycled, plastic-free packaging, zero-waste
Investment: $$
Demestik
Demestik’s prints will blow you away. There is something so deeply regal and luxurious about the combinations of colors and patterns. Designed and created by Reuben Reuel, Demestik specializes in creating high-quality clothing for people who want to cherish their clothes for years to come while still making a statement every time they wear them.
All of their garments – including iconic designs like their Gen Dress – are customizable and made-to-order so that each Demestik order fits the wearer like a glove.
Conscious elements: Cotton fabrics, customizable designs
Investment: $$$
LOUD BODIES
LOUD BODIES is a size-inclusive Romanian slow fashion brand creating delightfully whimsical garments, such as their Flora Top. Patricia Luiza Blaj started LOUD BODIES, because she believes that everybody deserves sustainably stylish clothing in their size and was determined to make ethically produced sustainable clothing of all sizes available to people everywhere. The brand uses GOTS and OEKO-TEX 100 certified fabrics.
LOUD BODIES is a size-inclusive lable, offering up to size 10XL. And, if you are looking for a garment beyond their size curve, then they offer free of charge custom orders so that you can order a garment that is the perfect fit.
Conscious elements: Size inclusive, non-toxic dyes, sustainable fabrics, ethical production, plastic-free packaging
Investment: $$$
Sene
Sene is a brand that believes that our bodies are too diverse for the standard sizing system. Sene is pioneering sizeless clothing with their made-to-measure approach that allows you to order garments that are one-of-a-kind, and made from scratch just for you.
Their offerings range from mom jeans to bomber jackets. Customers can take their SmartFit Quiz – a one-minute quiz that asks questions about your height, weight, standard sizes, and how you wish your clothes would fit – which allows them to get fitted from the comfort of their own home. The results of the quiz are used when a customer places their order, and the finished product is delivered two weeks later with an unlimited alterations policy to ensure the perfect fit.
Conscious elements: Size inclusive, unlimited remakes and alterations, sustainable dyeing techniques
Investment: $$-$$$
Ouisa
This woman and queer-owned brand describes themselves as “A French-inspired wardrobe concept for the aspiring minimalist” – and that could not be truer. Based in New York, Ouisa aims to promote the ethos of “less is more”.
Ouisa releases only two capsule collections per year. For example, you can currently browse their ‘warm’ and ‘core’ collections on their site. These six-piece collections feature versatile, timeless staples that encourage consumers to restyle each item and rewear them all year round.
All of Ouisa’s clothing is made using sustainable materials such as bamboo, TENCEL Modal, certified eco-friendly cotton, and STANDARD 100 by OEKO-TEX certified textiles.
Conscious elements: Sustainable fabrics, low-impact dyes, ethical labor, and fair wage practices
Investment: $$$
Lucinda Babi
Lucinda Babi is a Melbourne-based brand creating elevated streetwear with a sustainable twist. Each garment, such as their Hurricane Top, is made-to-order from locally-sourced materials and produced in-house by Lucinda.
Lucinda Babi is transparent about the fact that they are on a continuous journey to improve their sustainability efforts and become a lower-impact brand.
Conscious elements: locally-sourced materials, recycled and compostable packaging
Investment: $$$
Bonus: Helen Kirkum Studio
HELEN KIRKUM STUDIO is bringing the made-to-order model to sneakers! The brand repurposes and recycles old sneakers or deconstructs your treasured kicks and turns them into a one-of-a-kind, inherently individual pair of sneakers. This is a truly unique collaborative process that takes something old and turns it into something new, becoming a personal archive of your most loved shoes.
They also offer digital sneaker sculpture workshops where you can learn how to make a sneaker sculpture using your household recycling. The workshop aims to remind people of the value of waste materials and the creativity of working with what you already have.
Conscious elements: Upcycled, low-waste processes
Investment: $$$$+
These brands are reimagining what a truly inclusive, sustainable, and ethical future of fashion could look like. I hope that browsing through these brands shows you that genderless fashion looks no different from any other kind of fashion, and it is not a specific fit, style, or aesthetic.
If you’d like to learn more about the movement to degender fashion, and why clothing should be for everyone, you can read this Conscious Fashion Collective article featuring the thoughts and perspectives of five people who are challenging gender binaries in fashion.
About the Author:
Stella Hertantyo is based in Cape Town, South Africa, and is currently completing her PGDip in Sustainable Development to accompany her undergraduate in Multimedia journalism. She is a slow-living enthusiast and a lover of low-impact fashion.
She is passionate about encouraging an approach to sustainability that is inclusive, accessible, and fun as we try to figure out how to create a more sustainable and just world, together.
When Stella is not in front of her laptop doing uni work, you'll probably find her reading, writing, illustrating, or baking/cooking. A dip in the ocean, or a walk in the mountains, are the two things that bring her the most peace.
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Cover Image Credit: Lucinda Babi